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Midway along our journey from New Delhi to Bharatpur, we pulled our bus off the highway and leapt out to scan for birds and other things that might flash in our binoculars and cameras. At first glance, these intensively farmed lands, flush with people everywhere, didn’t seem a good prospect for wildlife viewing. But as the small wetlands dotting this landscape came deeper into focus, species after species appeared — a wealth of ducks, cormorants, ibises, spoonbills, storks, herons, kingfishers, and shorebirds.